OCD.......obsessive campervan disorder

Base Coat

2012-01-28T11:28:00.000-08:00

So finally making progress after my brothers push on activity, massive confusion on colour choice did not help

Colour is such a strange thing it looks like a grey here, but below pure green!!

White roof only at this point in time, if i have any second thoughts it wont take long to add thje extra pastel white.

I am aware that I don't think i will ever tire of seeing the underside painted and that for others they will not just see, but also feel green!!!!!

Look and weep, dont forget this is 2K paint on Hot Zinc finish.

I am also very happy to see some colour inside my bus, its given it more warmth and style some how. She used to be two tone inside and out which was way to busy. Its only a base coat on the inner and outer body shell, so a quick cut back on the visable inner and all of the exterior and its time for a couple of top coats!!!!! I've got half a shed full of painted rolling stock, belly pans, peddles etc. and am keen to get this baby on her feet again, she's not moved for at least four months now.

Reedgrün

2012-01-27T13:43:00.000-08:00

So Reed Grun wins over Mango. I am happy as this is a richer colour, more forest than beach!! The cab looks nice with colour.

So I managed to get more primer on both inside and out and then got a first coat of reed grun on

A bit of colour just ties everything together so well. I am very excited now as I can see an end to this long stage of finishing, ready for the final fitments.

A Perfect Storm

2012-01-23T14:09:00.000-08:00

This image just about sums up my concerns this is an amazing contrast of the exact opposite colours spectrum's, a real compliment of tone.

Or Audi?

2012-01-23T14:02:00.000-08:00

More Sea or See Sand on a Ghia.

Or this Audi Nimbus Grey??? This looks really good I've seen it in the flesh, so to speak?

VW Blues

2012-01-23T13:43:00.000-08:00

This beetle is See Sand

Neptune framework looks fantastic. Mango looks like the inside of an aircraft.

Neptune blue

OCD Copy Rights

2012-01-23T13:25:00.000-08:00

What can I say found searching our crew!!! A Chinese counterfeit of our higher quality brand of
Obsessive Campervan Disorder!!!

Re: Colour Choice For VW Camper

2012-01-23T13:22:00.000-08:00

Mango green and pastel white up to this poit in high quality finish.

Reid Grau in the latter, in less high quality paint and polish.

L346 Mango Green

2012-01-22T13:09:00.000-08:00

Gary push started me into progress, and with him powering ahead suddenly it all looks nearly done. The underside in vw mango green 2k paint and is looking amazing.

But mango does look very green in certain lights.

and looks quite soft in others. Wow clean belly is going to be nice to work on.

rear hatch detail for colour. Do I stick with Mango or go back to the olive green or a blue???? Opinions please, this is driving me crazy.

So new pastel white roof. We are happy with this!!

LOWERED BEAM

2012-01-01T08:01:00.000-08:00

Started the strip down.

Old beam out. The suspensions killing me!!

Put pack together for nightfall.

Final adjustments made in the morning including a bit of camber.

Finally got it finished. I have lowered her by at least two inches and the difference is amazing. A harder ride without question but so much quicker on the highways. I also still have time to adjust the ride height to find a happy balance.

Adjustable Front Beam

2011-12-29T09:40:00.000-08:00

So we've made some progress on Elcie but now need a new beam and full set of ball joints for the beetle!!!

A good cut back showing the need for more filler and a high build primer on the lower half.

Generally very good and am now nearly totally perplexed about the choice of colour and finish.

So a new clean old beam with sway away adjusters already fitted. Gleaming in fresh 2k satin black paint.

Vwheritage only sent me 4x upper arms and ball-joints, so have to wait for the correct delivery. Notice new outer seals as well. Just need to do all the crap associated with this job, if i get the correct parts!!! So time to look at lowering the bug??!?!?!

Happy Christmas OCD Crew

2011-12-23T08:13:00.000-08:00

Santas nicked a porsche!!!

All I want for christmas....................

Bus baubles how fantastic................................

Imagine being inside it on a bus roofrack at fifty??? How mental..............maybe we should arrange it as one of those experience vouchers???
Happy christmas everyone, hope to see you all soon in the new year, and looking forward to some more road trips in 2012.

Mango, Olive Green or reed grau?

2011-11-27T11:31:00.000-08:00

So now it comes down to Mango Green as one option - also satin green here up to the gutter is something I have always considered done.

More mango and pastel white as a gloss finish.

A beetle in mango.

This is a matt mango.

Olive grenn drab.

Olive green as a gloss, also looks very good.

Olive gloss....mmmmmmm.

This a reed grey in satin and below a karman ghia in the same but gloss.nice soft satin surface - will start to buff up in areas.

More Primer

2011-11-26T10:57:00.000-08:00

It has been a very long time since I made a progress post, generally because there is no progress. I need to commit to paint very soon and that will really change the direction of this stall. I really need to commit to a new shed also more importantly.

Sliding door still needs attention to detail but overall very pleased so far.

Opposite sliding door repair also looking buff.

No evidence of a cut rear quarter.

So a quick cut back with the random orbit sander and a thick coat of filler primer lower down cut back again then final thincoat all over.

It Finally Arrives Gary's VW Bus Subaru Conversion.

2011-11-26T10:34:00.000-08:00

With the sound of rolling thunder Gary finally made it up to Norfolk to show of his latest toys.

First thing, the morning after the arrival of the Type 2baru.

Well its al least 11:30, will they ever wake up?? I know its cozy in there...........Gary and Lucy enjoy their creature comforts!! Notice the deep sump and the raised and vented numberplate. More details and some vids to come from the man himself soon.

VOLKSWAFFER

2011-11-23T12:08:00.000-08:00

THIS IS SO RIDICULUS YET SO FANTASTIC, A MUST SEE. TELLS THE REAL STORY OF THE VDUB BEETLE FIGHTER!!

VW SWING AXLE REPLACEMENT

2011-10-29T11:21:00.000-07:00

Look at the state of the casting, notice how off centre the center spline is on this..poor quality replacement at least 10 yrs old.

Lovely new set of good quality drums from vwheritage.

Old swing axle and tube out also back plate, shoes, pistons, fittings, etc. Not very easy insitue. Brand new swing axle shaft because the old one had threaded the castle nut and fallen of at 40mph!!! Thank god the rear wheel just sat in the rear wheel fender/tub/arch!!!

So much better, all new rear brakes complimented by a recent all new front and cylinder replacement.
So I now need to replace the rear bearings and possibly new shocks all round but it is evedent that the front beam is knackered and I need a replacement, Darren??.
Got a fresh clean MOT for the bug just the other day, so just need another free 12 months road tax also!!!! ;) The only advisory was that it had an oil leak? Got some sanding done on Elcie with Neil today so hopefully a new post on her progress soon.

Nice Syncro going...

2011-10-21T08:39:00.001-07:00

Who's afraid of a the big bad syncro?!?!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemNext&item=290621376389&autorefresh=true#ht_500wt_1415

I'm bidding, just so nobody bids against me!!

A commer comes visiting

2011-10-12T09:14:00.000-07:00

The Morning After

2011-10-11T12:54:00.000-07:00

Its like Dale Farm 2 ?!!?

This man does actually own a VW Camper, not just this inflated parker jacket.

Breakfast of egg muffins sorted out sore heads.

More pictures from Steve taken first thing at the first Lodge Camp Over.

The Night of the Lodge

2011-10-11T12:32:00.000-07:00

Sparks from the campfire.

Circle of friends.

What was that?

Mr Miagi's new Japo German hybrid

2011-10-05T09:05:00.001-07:00

The day before the Lodge do..

2011-10-03T12:50:00.000-07:00

Sent from my HTC

The Lodge

2011-09-28T04:08:00.001-07:00

A quick garden tour.
Also a location map for your information.

FUTURE OCD-VW HQ?

2011-09-28T03:00:00.000-07:00

Our new place!

The view from the lane.

This shows the old gateway to Eau Brink Hall that was demolished in the early sixies. All that remains is the lodge (gatehouse) and this wonderful old gate pillar complete with stone ball cap.

This area was used as the chicken run, our formal garden is just visable over the bridge and through the little gate.

Our new geese enjoying the meadow.

Looking down the meadow you can just see the orchard at the end, Not one single partition of land as a shared boundary with a Neighbor, just farmers.

Plenty of places to build a new workshop and plenty of camping pitches!!!! I cant wait to see this meadow full of vw campervans.

Slow Progress

2011-09-28T02:23:00.000-07:00

Took this photo opportunity on moving all our kit out of the old cottage, a rather lush picture of the primered underside reflected in a mirror. Not sure when the next push starts!!

Another faultless 300 mile voyage from ole snowy snorefolk to derbyshire in effortless air cooled ease!

2011-09-23T13:11:00.000-07:00

Cressbrook Hall, nr Monsal Head and Bakewell in Derbyshire ... hills!

I think he's "Turning Japanese"

2011-09-05T12:13:00.000-07:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEmJ-VWPDM4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

TYPE2BARU

2011-09-05T09:52:00.000-07:00

We have some strange things occuring in the AIRCOOLED world of OCDVW.....Grumblings and a rumblings can be heard? Could it be a 2.2 ltr waterboxer from Japan?

An example crammed into a beetle......mental.

An example in a type 25, a much better fit. Gary needs an old type 2 or 25 top engine hatch???

SHATTERED

2011-09-05T09:38:00.000-07:00

Driving home from work this afternoon, I passed on oncoming truck which hurled some heavy old chunk of stuff at me and I ended up wearing the windscreen. Not much fun at sixty.....thump/crack.......creake....whoooshhh. A really crap week at work, now Ive got another unaccounted cost!!!

Good news is Ive got no rot on the beetle windscreen, I notice that the beetle has two small drain holes drilled into the lower window frame recess corners to allow water to drain away........A good modification for a bus???

5 go mad in Dorset

2011-09-02T13:09:00.000-07:00

Stonehenge, the isle of purbeck, durdle door and lulworth cove 600 miles in snowy and all running fine air cooled all the way!

VW Zinc Coated

2011-08-31T12:39:00.000-07:00

This is the Hot Zinc process in action.

A reel of zinc wire if feed through a flame to melt it whilst compressed air then disperses it.

Good image of the gun.

Danny Overton himself..........The Zincman!!

Well imagine fitting wheels at the base of the legs, the anti lowering look!!
Call Overtons Garage, Kings Lynn, Norfolk. On 01553 761774 for any Zinc or paintwork.

The tent that thinks it's a campervan¿ now you can sleep in a cloth Volkswagen | Mail Online

2011-08-28T15:47:00.001-07:00

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1390722/The-tent-thinks-campervan-sleep-cloth-Volkswagen.html

TrailWise - The National Catalogue of Rights of Way

2011-08-28T13:47:00.001-07:00

http://www.trailwise.org.uk/

Let's off road!

Awesome site check out the maps section ..

Swapmeet

2011-08-28T10:17:00.001-07:00

http://www.bugbus.net/

The Ultimate Anti Rust Treatment VW Campervan

2011-08-17T14:39:00.000-07:00

Danny at Overtons Coachworks, King's Lynn, where all the zinc work was done. Well done lads a fantastic job!!

Just look at that!!

Thats sick......................

...................

.Front and rear beam, chassis rails, tops hats, all jackingpoints all floors.............I could continue........

What a difference.

A quick spin around underside.

VW Type 2 1955cc engine rebuild

2011-08-17T05:18:00.000-07:00

All resealed, the case, head bolts, sump, oil pump etc. Also 2k primer coating looks really good.

New old rear tray looking good.

Evidence of total zinc coating all over. NEWS FLASH..............Elcie has been zinc coated!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Watch this space!!!

Front Beam for OCD1

2011-08-08T04:52:00.001-07:00

This lowered beam has no rot, so could be a great one to cut off the bump stop?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Camper-Type-2-Bus-lowered-Beam-/180705643021?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a12e54a0d&autorefresh=true#ht_500wt_1156

Been lowered by cut and twist method, so probably knackered!
I'm bidding £15 at the mo, it's only up in Leeds (an hour away from here)

VW 2.0ltr Gearbox Overhaul

2011-08-06T15:59:00.000-07:00

A whole box full of zinked bits.

The old weller wheels all blasted and zinked.

the same parts all now 2k primered. Its like some kind of fine art installation.

and now in L41 vw satin black 2K.

So the old two liter box has been leaking for ages on both drive shafts. So plugs out and then remove circlips.

Dot punched and counted out the pre load on the covers.... seven rotations on mine, had to use a wooden chisel to drive out anticlockwise.

Utilised a caliper piston tool to get a firm grip and for ease of rotation.

Out, now both the oil seal is easy to remove from behind and the old o ring is visable on the very upper ring of the cover.

Gear box all painted in none brake and clutch cleaner removable paint!!!

FULL METAL JACKET

2011-07-26T08:40:00.000-07:00

All those fiddly little but important jobs completed.

Also cut in half the old 3 quarter length bed and rewelded it as a king size rock n roll. Jim/Gary you might be interested in the full length westy bed??

Perched on a mountain of rust.............she now has a Full Metal Jacket!!!

Recovery truck transportation for blasting and hot zincing!!

Hip Hip Horay!!!!

Back at Overtons coach works!!

A little detailing of the stenciling and graffiti that has developed on Elcie recently.
So a few weeks and all the hard work of cleaning the underside done and a 50 year anti surface corrosion treatment completed................what more could you ask??

Steel!

2011-07-24T12:25:00.001-07:00

OCD1 and his pile of junk!

2011-07-23T11:40:00.000-07:00

Nice looking Syncro...

2011-07-20T01:48:00.001-07:00

Or not ;)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280711686185&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_1835wt_1144

Long live the Commer!!! ;)

Party weekend

2011-07-08T17:37:00.000-07:00

The Bugawning. New feature.

Poly tunnel swiming pool.

Max enjoying the idea of the pool

The jig!

New Resto Required

2011-07-08T17:27:00.000-07:00

Gary as Salvador Dali co permanent pen!!!
Bens bday 2011. Not responsible.

Another snorefolk bus stopover ... souskous man!

2011-07-06T12:55:00.000-07:00

Gaz out in his bus for the first time .... ever?

Couple of Options?

2011-07-04T09:05:00.000-07:00

This syncro might be a great project as just needs a scapped Polo engine in it by the looks of it: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150627558539

Or there's a t25 pickup in Naaarfalk: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330584566092

Or a splitty: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110710480405

Are we up for another session on Elcie this Saturday????

1969 VW Bass Box

2011-06-27T13:29:00.000-07:00

Good to see so many friends in one weekend!! Even got a bit of work done!!!

Finished or have I

2011-06-06T14:09:00.000-07:00

I even had Elliots help this weekend, also Gary and Neil gave their best in getting things moving.

Ugly old repair removed from front wing..

Nice new flush repair.

Looking very original.

Last few bits....can I make it to the garage this week?? not likley!!!!

My new badge

2011-06-05T10:46:00.000-07:00

Sent from my HTC

Someone buy this please!

2011-06-02T07:17:00.001-07:00

It has no diff lock, and it's a 14 inch model, but what a fun toy for the collective!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120730401958&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_531wt_1144

N50K or LP6E? In MiliHippy Satin Finish.

2011-05-31T06:49:00.000-07:00

I really need some comments on this as i am looking at satin paint at the moment. In green it has that military look without being matt. The blue also has that military quality in satin. What should I do (colour, satin or gloss) ?? also do you agree with up to the gutter line?

Such a soft finish, also will hide any ripples wonderfully.

I like the fact that when she rolls out the shed she will look very clean but not so new?

Being a satin paint it will be very easy to both paint and repair. This has got to raise some opinions. I want your comments please.

VW camper complete side panel repair

2011-05-30T15:12:00.000-07:00

you can just see the two old upper dents in both panels (was easily hidden with filler before) also both lower panels welded in.

Fridge vent clearly visable (chris has one of these electrolux vents for sale ;) )

NICE LINES ..........

Gary next weekend we need the castle nuts off, also threaded rivet insert tool for removable side belly pans. Can you make it?

This is the complete repair panel from VW Mexico cut right down. It is best gauge and quality and loads better than the alternative cover patch repair.
So Darren and Gary down this weekend coming, Could be time to send her for sandblast and zinc the lower six inches!!!!!

Latest update for Elcie

2011-05-29T13:27:00.000-07:00

O/s outer wheel arch complete.

Inner post repairs and repainting of inner sill.

New lower side panel repair offered up....it fits so tight.

Looking straight if you can ignore the repair line.

Checked sliding door fit.

Loads of welds to clean back, and more welding to do but just starting to feel like it is possible.

Wheel arch panel welding

2011-05-29T12:22:00.000-07:00

Watch "Off road the web foot way" on YouTube

2011-05-29T11:19:00.001-07:00

Heh heh web footin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWmDBDjWe08&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Certain lengths of the Peddars Way can be legally driven by motor vehicles. The Norfolk Coast Path is not open to motor vehicles....

2011-05-25T13:38:00.001-07:00

Vehicle use of the Peddars Way - Peddars Way/Norfolk Coast Path - National Trails

Tempting Syncro on ebay!

2011-05-25T07:28:00.001-07:00

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565001055&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123#ht_703wt_1144

Die Leiche aus dem Wald wird geborgen.

2011-05-24T12:22:00.000-07:00

WTF, VW Heritage?!?

2011-05-24T08:51:00.000-07:00

So apparently, these KYB GR-2 shocks can fit the front AND rear of, and I quote, "Any type 2 van from 1969 onwards"....

Errrrr, am I being stupid or what?!?! I can't unscrew them or extend them any further... unless there's a secret way. But VW Heritage insist they are for the front and rear!

Any ideas?

Arguing the case fit build vs buy

2011-05-17T00:28:00.001-07:00

Arguing the case for build vs buy

......"If you're unlucky enough to have an engine that was casually rebuilt using rods from different weight groups, the difference between the heavy and light rod could be as much as 16 grams. (Engines that have two heavy rods on the same side have a characteristic lope at idle that conventional wisdom says is the sign of a 'hot' engine, mistaking the lope for the valve overlap of a high performance cam.)"......

http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/vw-free-horsepower.html

Cams, like heads, are a big area, you can really mess up an engine with the wrong cam

2011-05-13T00:33:00.000-07:00

Camshafts and the valve train....

"Cams, like heads, are a big area, you can really mess up an
engine with the wrong cam, even more so than with heads. A 1679
with Weber 34ICTs and standard heads will not run with an Engle
FK98 cam.

Cams have two main measurements, the lift, in either millimeters
or inches, and the duration in degrees of the crank. The
duration is the time the valve is opened for, the longer this
duration the more fuel gets into the engine and the bigger the
bang when it ignites. Well, that's the theory, in actual fact
the longer the valve is open for the faster the engine needs to
be running for this to happen, so at idle the engine will not run
all that well. For street use you should not consider anything
with a duration of greater than 290 degrees. The most popular
cam I have ever seen used on the street is the Engle W110, it has
286 degrees and 0.431" (10.95mm) valve lift. Engle also make the
W100 which is often better used on an engine under 1700cc or
heavy weight cars (I use on in my 1776cc crewcab). The duration
of this cam is only 276 degrees which brings the power band down
where a smaller capacity engine needs it.

Remember this: The longer the duration the higher the power band,
and subsequently the lack of power in the lower rev range.

Cam lift is usually measured in inches ('cos most manufacturers
of VW cams are American, despite being for a German car, don't
ask) and either is at the valve or the cam, so make sure you know
which before deciding on one. There are different rocker ratios
as well, the standard rockers multiply the lift by 1.1, whereas
others have ratios of 1.4:1 and 1.5:1, this of course means the
cam lift is multiplied by 1.4 or 1.5 to give full valve lift
(less the rocker/valve clearance, usually 0.004"/0.1mm for inlet
and 0.006"/0.15mm for exhaust, keep this to 0.006"/0.15mm for
both on a <100bhp engine). If you intend using higher ratio
rockers, check the cam card closely and check if you can/should
run a ratio rocker with it. The more lift you have the more fuel
goes in and the bigger the bang when it ignites, so the higher
the lift the more fuel (well, it almost works like that). Most
manufacturers have their popular street cams, I've mentioned
Engle's, Bugpack have their 4062-10, which gives a little less
lift and a little less duration, Scat have the C35, Gene Berg has
his GB297, slight differences, but all much the same. Any of
these cams will work well on the road throughout the rev range,
plus give increased performance over the standard cam. They all
have around 284-286 degrees and about 0.415 - 0.451". If you
want a little more lift without the extra duration, my personal
road choice is the Engle VZ25, but these do work better with
modified heads.

If you insist in going over the 290 degree barrier, then it's
your own fault when it's a bit sluggish in town. Valve lift is
not quite as bad, but please use 1.1:1 rockers as there are very
few road cams that are designed to use a 1.4:1 or 1.5:1 that work
any better than an equivalent one designed to run on 1.1:1
rockers. Still try to keep your total valve lift to below 0.500"
as this is the limit of a standard head. Forget the 1.25:1
rockers, they really don't give enough extra for the price you
pay.

There are adjustable cam gears available, don't buy one. You
cannot set up the cam better that it was manufactured. If the
cam doesn't match the cam card it came with it is either a faulty
cam or a faulty cam gear, so take it/them back. There are also
straight cut gears, these prevent cam lash caused by the
synchromesh type gear, but as you won't be running dual valve
springs, you won't need these either, plus they are so noisy.

Dual valve springs are available to fit any head, don't buy them,
you don't need them for street use and they slow your engine
down. Any extra work you make your engine do, like open valves
with more springs on than they need, will slow it down. A
new set of single springs is a good idea, as this will keep your
valves closed when they should be closed because twenty five year
old springs don't work as well as they did when they were new.

You can buy chrome-moly pushrods, don't. You can and should
consider 'cut to length' steel pushrods, these will return your
rocker arm geometry back to the way the factory made it,
efficient."

SOURCE: http://www.cwgsy.net/private/ramva/tech.htm

Sent from my HTC

BUSH MECHANICS TOP TIPS....The question is how to torque large nuts such as the rear axle nut or the flywheel gland nut without having a torque wrench

2011-05-13T00:20:00.000-07:00

What other tips and tricks can we find?

This is a question that comes up pretty regularly so I thought it would
be wise to address it on this page. The question is how to torque large
nuts such as the rear axle nut or the flywheel gland nut without having
a torque wrench. Accurate torque is important for these nuts, and
luckily there is a way to do it without a torque wrench.

First, you need the proper tools. The rear axle nut for the air-cooled
cars is 36mm, and for the Buses/vans it is 46mm. The flywheel nut is
also 36mm on Type 1 engines. So, the proper tool here is a 6-point 36mm
and/or 46mm socket, ideally welded to a 6-foot long piece of cheater
pipe (basically a thick, heavy pipe to give the leverage necessary for
the task). Bob Hoover has a 6-foot long pipe with a 36mm socket welded
to one end and a 46mm socket welded to the other end.

The proper use of the tool can be found through some very simple math.
First you need the torque specification for the particular nut. Check
your Bentley manual. Let's say for the sake of example that the torque
spec for the rear axle nut is 300 foot-pounds. And let's say for the
sake of example that you weigh 150 pounds. Well, you simply divide the
300 foot-pounds by the 150 pounds, and that gives you 2 feet. The two
feet is the distance from the center of the nut that you will apply
force. So go out two feet on your cheater pipe. Make a mark at the
2-foot point and put one hand on either side, right up to the mark.
Then push down and keep pushing steadily until your feet clear the
floor. Don't jump up and down on it or anything like that. That will
give you the proper torque. Then you have to make sure that the hole
for the cotter pin is aligned so go tighter if you have to, not looser,
whichever is closer, to get the holes lined up and there you are.

Now that you know the mathematical relationship, you can simply substitute the real numbers into the equation for the example numbers above.

Source: http://www.type2.com/bartnik/torque.htm

Sent from my HTC

Sent this to Engle performance cams for a horses mouth response....

2011-05-11T09:39:00.000-07:00

I sent this direct
to Engle cams for a technical response......

Hi guys wondering if
you can help with a technical query regarding the Engle 110 cam. I have recently
had a VW twin port(for a type 2 VW 1974) short block built by an engine shop in
the UK (The Engine Shop, TES). They fitted an Engle 110 cam, 1641 barrels and
009 distributor. Otherwise the engine itself is stock AS41 case, stock VW heads
and crankshaft etc. I got the engine back and have fitted it with twin Weber ICT
34's and am running a 4into1 exhaust. The problem I have is that at idle the
engine wobbles at lot, stalls and generally doesn't seem to want to run. Trying
to diagnose the problem (I have checked usual things compression, valve and
tappet clearance, point gap, air leaks, distributor, leads, plugs etc and all
appears normal and within tolerances) eventually led me to remove the ignition
lead on #3 cylinder, and there is no difference in the engine sound revs etc,
the same goes for #1 cylinder (cylinders 1 & 3 not firing at idle around 900
rpm). Whereas if I remove #2 or 4 the engine stumbles and wants to stall (normal
behaviour). The Engine shop claim that cylinders 1 & 3 not running at idle
(but picking up under load) is a symptom of the Engle 110 cam. I wondered if you
had a view on this and might be happy to let me have any pearls of wisdom which
might help me in addressing this issue. I am not convinced by their stand point
and they seem to be blaming the fact the the engine only runs on 2 cylinders out
of 4 at idle due to the Engle cam!! Sure this is not great marketing for you
guys I would sure appreciate any and all assistance you might provide.

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Cylinders 1 and 3 not firing at idle when running engle 110 cam in a 1641cc running twin weber 34 ict's and 4-1 single quiet pack exhaust

2011-05-11T07:15:00.001-07:00

Cylinders 1 & 3
not firing at idle when running 1641 barrels, stock heads, 4 - 1 quite pack
exhaust, twin ICT weber 34's.....

Some say.......
"The engle 110 has
enough overlap that cylinders 1 and 3 will not fire at idle due to the reversion
pulse pushing air up the intake port. The reversion pulse occurs when the
intake valve opens and the left over combustion pressure pushes spent gases into
the intake. How much depends on the amount of valve overlap, how restrictive the
exhaust system is, and at what RPM you are at."

So what's reversion?......

"when the pressure wave from the exhaust pulse reaches the end
of the pipe, it will be reflected. At certain engine speeds at which the whole
system (exhaust AND induction) are in the proper resonance, this pressure wave
(reflected as a pulse of rarefied air), will reach the head at the precise
moment of overlap in which both the exhaust valve and the intake valve are open,
producing a partial vacuum that helps to draw air into the cylinder. In general,
this will only happen over a narrow rpm range. For a Harley, there will only be
one such range on the safe side of redline. At all other engine speeds, a
compression pulse blows through to the carburettor and is carburetted once on
the way out, and again on the way in, producing a rich stumble and a resultant
loss of power at that rpm range. In general, the "sweet spot" where the
reversion pulse helps will be well over 5000rpm

Another issue might be.....

"Unless you are using one carb per cylinder with the dual port the air fuel
is forced to choose between one runner or the other due to the reversion pulse
of the intake valve closing. The farther up the intake it has to choose the
worse the discrepancy in the idle quality gets. "

The long and the short of this is that "The Engine Shop" (TES) who built my short block say that this is not an issue I explained that compression is low at cold on 1 and 3 now between 110-115 but between 120-125 on 2 and 4 they are happy for me to continue to run the engine despite my (and other OCD'ers concerns) with this compression ... basically they (Jim at TES) couldn't explain why 1 and 3 don't run on idle or weren't interested so I will continue to run the engine and if it goes bang I will be calling TES under warranty for a new one : )

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Engine diagnostics

2011-05-09T14:20:00.001-07:00

Engine Diagnostics
~~~
Someone provided a great lead-in to the subject -
I have a 1968 1641cc engine that I just rebuilt. My mechanic said to get a centrifugal advance (009) distributor, which I did. During the fire-up the engine would barely run -- it had a bad miss on one side. I found the #4 cylinder is not firing (no heat on the exhaust manifold). All others seem to be working fine.
I checked all the wires all are in the correct order and appear in good condition -- I even checked the resistance of the wires and they are the same. Common sense tells me I've got gas, I've got fire -- what is wrong with this cylinder? I even pulled the valve cover and all of the valves seem to be going up and down okay.
Rob responded with an excellent treatise -
Okay - let's start at the top and work through it.
Your tests are good so far (valves working, leads give similar ohms...)
Which cylinder is what -
front of car

    3 1

    4 2

rear of car
Firing order -
1-4-3-2

Distributor -
front of car

    3 &nbsp2

      o

    4 &nbsp1

rear of car
(The "o" is the centre wire to the coil.)
The '68 engine was an H series single-port 1500cc engine. Do you still have the single-port heads, or have you converted it to twin port?
The reason I ask is that if the single-port heads have a loose manifold attachment (air leak), BOTH cylinders on that side will misfire, but with the twin port heads, it's just possible for a manifold air leak to one cylinder only. The twin port (TP) manifolds do need some attention to make sure they bed down correctly on the head - I've had a problem there in the past myself - thought I'd snugged the manifold down right but both cylinders that side were misfiring, and it was the manifold not quite sitting flat.
After checking that, check the plugs - swap plugs if you don't have a spare handy. Does the misfire move with the plug? I've had two Bosch plugs bad out-of-the-box, and have changed to NGK B5HS (or B5ES for the long thread heads). These are excellent plugs, very reliable so far.
If the misfire doesn't move with the plug, then get a spare plug and connect the #4 lead to it and lie it down touching the engine case, and start the engine - any spark? (easier to see at night or in the shade). If you have a spark then the plug in the head is suspect. (You aren't using "never seize" or similar on the plug threads I hope - that stuff can cause problems in the hot-running VW heads.)
No spark? Then try another lead (completely swap leads if necessary). If the misfire moves with the lead, the lead is toast. If the misfire stays at #4, then maybe the distributor cap is toast. Make sure all wires are seated properly, the cap is clean, both inside and out, and check for hairline cracks. Have a look at the posts inside the cap - do they all show similar burn marks where the spark jumps from the rotor arm to the post? Maybe there is too much gap on the #4 post (bad cap?).
I presume you've correctly gapped the points? Points just barely opening may fail to open for one cylinder.
Test all cylinders for compression (5-6 rotations of the engine is usually enough -- 2-3 seconds cranking). They should all be more than 100 psi (usually about 115-125 psi for a 1600cc engine), and less than 10 psi between best cylinder and worst cylinder. If one cylinder has low pressure, it will not be working right at idle, but will still provide some power at higher rpm so you would not notice it then. If the compression is lower than 100 psi, then the engine needs rebuilding.
Low compression usually means either a burned exhaust valve, or worn out piston rings. You can test for this. Squirt about 10 ml (10cc) engine oil in the spark plug hole of the bad cylinder (try and squirt it in a circle around the cylinder using a syringe), and do a compression test again immediately. If the pressure is better, then the rings are badly worn (the oil seals them a small amount). If the pressure is not changed, then the exhaust valve is burned. Engine oil will help seal leaky rings a little, but won't help a burned valve, so this test usually works quite well. If this test gives you results, then you will know if the cylinder heads need to be fixed, or if the pistons and cylinders need to be replaced.
For fun you could then wait a while and then do that cylinder again. If the compression has dropped at all, that confirms that the oil was filling gaps and has now drained away, so the rings in that cylinder have died.
If one valve is burned, ALL exhaust valves must be replaced. The exhaust valve is the hottest part of the VW engine (they glow red hot when you work the engine hard), and if one is damaged the others will soon follow, so you always replace all the exhaust valves together. (The inlet valves don't work nearly so hard - you don't have to worry about them).

Engine wobble!

2011-05-09T13:38:00.001-07:00

Test for Cylinder Mis-Firing

This test (sometimes called a "power balance" test) provides a good indication of how much each cylinder contributes to the overall power output of the engine. In addition, it also isolates which cylinders contribute little to manifold vacuum.
You can perform this test at home on any VW engine except those with electronic ignition. If there is a suspected burned valve or other major problem, this quick and easy test will indicate which cylinder it is. Because VWs have only four cylinders, a faulty one will show up relatively quickly.
To perform a cylinder mis-firing test -
Remove all the spark plug leads from the spark plugs.If a cylinder is faulty, when it is disabled it will have little or no effect on the engine's speed or performance, as it will not be contributing fully to the overall engine power.
A dwell-tachometer will give a more accurate indication of changes in engine rpm as you conduct the test.

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VintageBus.Com - VW Bus (and other) Wiring Diagrams

2011-05-09T11:41:00.001-07:00

http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/index.html

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A discussion on Carb linkage balancing...need to check this

2011-05-09T06:53:00.000-07:00

Ensuring the linkage is symmetrical....and I quote:

Ref:

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/dualcarb.htm

"The procedure I have outlined here all dual carburettors, even dual single bbls (except you only have one mixture screw per side, since one barrel feeds TWO cylinders). Other important things to check are that the linkage pieces "match" from side to side, and from carburettor to carburettor. The linkage has to keep the carburettors at the same adjustment at ALL throttle positions, not just idle! Part of this is that the carburettors have to open at the same rate, and if one side opens faster than the other, the car may run fine at idle, but hesitate and miss when on the road. Make sure the linkage is symmetrical. Also, you need the vertical throttle rods (If it's crossbar linkage) to be matched in their pitch from vertical. This ensures that the two carburettors open at the same rate, since the crossbar is rotating the same on both sides.

Sometimes you have to add/remove washers from various ball-joints on the linkage to adjust the threaded rods so they are at the same angle on both sides of the engine, but the engine will run SO much better, and it's amazing how many "experts" miss this important detail. "

NEED TO CHECK THIS AS MAY BE ONE REASON WHY CARBS ARE OUT OF BALANCED WHEN THROTTLED ON!!!

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Arrghhhh what's happened (update....)

2011-05-09T01:44:00.001-07:00

Just spoke to Jim at The Engine Shop explained what we thought the problem was and he said yeah will be lazy on 1 and 3 as running the high lift cam i.e removing leads on 1 amd 3 won't make a difference but when high revs will kick in .... but I said the timing is retarded and point gap is tiny ... he said to go back to basics and fit the og pulley (said it should have tdc mark if og vw pulley wheel not sure it does?) then check the advance he confirmed it should be 7.5 btdc and that I can change the timing if this is not the reading we get and we know what we are doing! ! He also said to check the point gap this should be 14 thousandsth....we can adjust if the gap is not that and won't invalidate warranty!

Should I think the plan is back to basics do a manual check to ensure tdc at 1 and work from there then check with timing gun etc and advance as required to 7.5 ..... going to recheck every gap from stone cold tonight update to follow......

Inshallah

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Arrghhhh what's happened ?

2011-05-09T00:35:00.001-07:00

I Can't sleep now the engine is not good : (

Initial problem we had was getting the carbs balanced and getting a good base setting what ever we did the carbs were flooding; wouldn't idle andc no matter what we couldn't achieve good base setting, very strong fuel smell and plugs wet no. 3 and 4 nearside bank of carbs (twin weber ict's 34)

Carb float settings checked 6mm 12mm then found a chunk of swarf in float chamber ? Removed this carbs now running no overrun or flooding. Checked fuel into carbs ok now but still a question over fuel to no. 3 but makes little sense as fuel getting to no. 4 and the plugs look rich (were wet at one point)

Next and BIG problem:
As couldn't get engine to run smooth but having checked the carbs and fuel we then Removed no. 3 lead and there is no change in engine speed so no. 3 is not firing ?

Checked firing order was ok on dizzy and leads fitted correctly tried new spark plugs and checked with known good dizzy cap and leads still no fire on 3!!!!

Thought this could be overtight valve on number 3?

Quick check of engine timing its set at 2 degrees before tdc by TES and clearly wants to stall (shouldn't this be set at least 7 degrees advance?)

Checked the point gap this is very tight almost no gap
Point gap should be 16 / thousandsth ??

This would result in weak spark missed or weak ignition / spark?? I.e. not firing in number 3

checked valve clearance very tight on intake and exhaust 4 and 3 these were very tight almost no gap on 3 and 4 intake but also exhaust. Adjusted to recommended gap as per running in instructions 8 / thousandths

We have read for compression around 120 and within about 5 for each so shows ok compression ? possibly need to recheck compression on number 3 carefully!

WHAT HAVE WE MISSED ?

http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html#timing

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CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

2011-05-07T16:02:00.001-07:00

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/34_ICT_tunning.htm

Hmmmmm..

2011-05-07T16:00:00.001-07:00

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/34_ICT_parts_breakdown.htm

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The Crown VW festival ; )

2011-05-02T10:29:00.000-07:00

Engine in and running!!

2011-04-29T14:44:00.000-07:00

All built up......4into1 manifold and that fantastic zinc coating.

In finally after airfilter mount removed. 1641cc engle cam and twin weber 34 ICTs

The man himself....fit that live to the starter!!!

Crank itt up!!!

Just needs fine tuning and running in at 50mph for 500 miles, .... bastard!!! Nice one mate!!!

Vroooooom .... or kaboooooom?

2011-04-28T14:07:00.000-07:00

Almost there one last push and vroooommm.. hopefully no KaboooOOOM!

27th Update

2011-04-27T14:05:00.000-07:00

I think hes taking this cling filmed engine thing a little too far!!!!

All primered and a spot of seam sealant.

A bling engine!!!

And a complete VW side panel (LHD) so the lower half under swage is identical.

It even has the inner ribs to work with? Backwards again damm.

Zinc Lacquer

2011-04-25T14:45:00.000-07:00

So took some time ware and gave it a scotch guard and a quick lacquer and it look good, a very light silver metallic. What do you think??

1641 high lift cams 4 into 1 and twin carbs to fit next

2011-04-25T12:03:00.000-07:00

Heh heh second stage build on the new engine all done! Tomorrow it goes in and gets fired up for the summer ... snowy rides again ... inshallah

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N/S Done?

2011-04-23T14:08:00.000-07:00

New seat belt mount.

Small edge repair to cab floor.

New Jacking point front and other detailed repairs to copy original profiles.

Still needs detail grinding, and seaming etc. So I think thats it for the N/S lower.

Cracking On

2011-04-18T10:29:00.000-07:00

Inner valance repair to lower edge.

Centre outer panel and repairs to lower rear quarters.

Inner valance 2mm metal repair.

O/S inner tub.

So as you can see lots of progress, but hard work.

Heavy Metal

2011-04-15T14:36:00.000-07:00

Wow , Im completly exhausted. so much so I cant tell if Im pleased with the results yet!!!

Rear sill repair also C Post

New side belly pans will make things tidy.

New inner n/s wheel tub.

All ready for outer skin.

Outer on.

Lower n/s rear quater out and in.

A good match and weld.

New battery tray, wheel tub inner and outer and lower rear quarter>???

Im tired.

Newest member for the eldest driver in our crew!

2011-04-13T11:46:00.000-07:00

Bargain, I reckon! (We'll see this weekend when I pick her up!)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330549757876#ht_2703wt_1115

Just bought it for my old man for his birthday and he's very happy (let's hope he is once he's driving it:)

Now we have some time to get Lucia really dolled up :)

The Zinc Test

2011-03-31T11:20:00.000-07:00

These are all old original parts, sandblasted and Hot Zinc Sprayed.

This is actually a back plate Gary discarded.

Gear box front mount visible in foreground.

Nose pan, light sanding visible in top right.

Daylight look is really white with a blue grey hint. Looks strong and honest. Comments please.

Let's have some fun this summer!

2011-03-29T02:16:00.000-07:00

The only mass produced 4WD with proper independent drive to each wheel (Add front and rear diff locks and you've got a vehicle that will piss over any modern Chelsea Tractor!)

Syncro

2011-03-27T02:56:00.000-07:00

Darren is interested in this Syncro. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200587778637&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_944wt_1139 This one Neil and I have been looking at.....Its on Southwestsplitz site.

Neil and I think this is also very good. It has a 2.1 engine.

More shiny things

2011-03-25T14:22:00.001-07:00

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The three laws of Engineering

2011-03-15T13:52:00.001-07:00

The three laws of (not) Engineering:

1. Always use the right tool for the job.

2. A hammer is the right tool for any job.

3. Anything can be used as a hammer.

Aforementioned holes in chassis

2011-03-15T01:20:00.000-07:00

Rust in chassis not good : (

Shiny shiny

2011-03-15T01:18:00.000-07:00

My old case now reconditioned by TES ready for fitting...now all I need to do is overhaul gearbox, brakes, wheel bearings, repair holes in chassis near engine mounts, buy and fit new exhaust, carbs and manifold, coil, leads, electronic ignition, pulley and vbelt.....can't think of anything else just yet!

The new engine of choice for today's discerning gentlemen...

2011-03-13T14:48:00.000-07:00

The new Z8 from http://greensteamengine.com/

Ready to stick a rocket stove in the back of Lucia and make the first SteamBus? ;)

O.C.D VW CRUIZE NORTH DEVON

2011-03-08T13:02:00.000-08:00

Whats this?!!! They think they are the OCD VW!!! and they got better busses man!!!

Progress on Elcie

2011-03-07T13:33:00.000-08:00

Mission to remove the brown stuff! Most glass out now and on with the strip down.

Is that a happy face??

Oh, a small hole in the upper screen corner.

All good.......

Clean inner sill.

Jacob cleaned down this drivers inner wheel arch for me, nice work son!!

The cuttin and the grinding!!!

2011-03-03T10:33:00.001-08:00

Looking more like the old Haynes Manuel cover illustration by the day!!

So, to update, its 2x rear tubs, 2x outer rear arch, 2x complete jacking points, 1x outer sill, 1x inner sill, 1x battery tray, 1x lower rear quarter, 2x front seat belt mounts. The new inner sill from JK is fantastic (must be original VW Mexico).

Oh, the pain of cutting away at your bus. Slowly but surely the Rot is being removed.

AS037579 packed and ready to go

2011-03-02T12:52:00.000-08:00

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AS037579 Ready for shipping to TES

2011-03-02T12:51:00.001-08:00

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A trip back in time

2011-02-24T07:27:00.001-08:00

Old repair to offside rear wheel arch.(failed due to rusty inner)

Good offside battery tray and rear quarter!!!

Solid front valance!!

Good upper inner wheel tubs.

Good under side.

N/S battery tray out.

N/S inner sill is good, but for very end section.....will repair this instead of removing completely.

Again the outer side of this piece.

Good Memories

2011-02-22T13:55:00.001-08:00

A bus gathering for my last birthday, good company and good memories.

Some quality blurred piccies also.

How cosy!!!

Also sounds good too!!

Removing Underseal.

2011-02-22T13:32:00.000-08:00

Outer sill is pretty good but the rubber recess has gone through.

Inner center sill look quite solid and could probably stay...inner outer sill is shot.

Rear and front jacking points need replacing.

Finally starting to shift that underseal. Started to remove old inner wheel arch repair plate to find it has created problems.

Small rust hole between cab floor and wheel arch, thats about it, with near complete B post outer and healthy front arches. So far!!!!

Working late..........where are the other VumplestiltWagens now????

This is not much fun, and slow progress.

New Screen

2011-02-18T13:14:00.000-08:00

Finally, thats all I can say!!!!!!????? Its all about using the right rubber!!! if only I was told that 14 yrs ago!!!:).

When Time Becomes a Loop, When Time Becomes a Loop!!

2011-01-23T11:36:00.000-08:00

Solid inner cabloading floor still with all paint from 8 years ago.Cut out poor repairs from first resto. I think I need a new inner wheel arch :(MMMMM.....................Tin worm has been hungry!! Ouch that could have really hurt!!! Pulled out seatbelt mounting point by hand!!

Really solid cab floor and inner wheel tubs minus a couple of seatbelt mounts.

1 original j point is gone but thats about the lot as far as cross riggers, chassis rails etc.

Clean above gear box.

Good solid front, including lamp recesses, air vents and outer deformation panel. Considering the £800 originally spent on the purchase and the fact that I restored her with no prior knowledge and only a can opener and a aerosol she is looking pretty solid..........Just in time for a proper restoration!!!